The Buddhas of Bamiyan

Legendary Bamiyan! As our car neared the valley, I had no idea what to expect. Afghanistan and its friendly people promised a magnificent climax to the 18 months I had spent in Asia in 1969 and 1970. It was an up-and-down ride, crossing three or four high passes. Eventually ruined forts, villages and the rocky Afghani landscape gave way to a broad plain with a simple two-story hotel and some yurts, circular tents made of yak hair or horse hide. The yurts belonged not 036to wandering nomads but to the hotel, and we stayed in them during our time at Bamiyan.

Once settled in, I asked the driver to take us to the Bamiyan site. He informed me that by the time we reached the caves it would be too dark to see much. “But,” he said, “you can see the Buddhas from here.” We walked a few hundred yards and the plain fell away to give a breathtaking view of the Bamiyan valley.